The model of the classic dinner suit
The dinner suit is the foundation of the black-tie ensemble. The model, style set the tone for the formality and swank of the remaining attire.
The single-breasted model is often worn unbuttoned requiring the trousersâ€™Â ivory tuxedo shirtÂ Â Â exposed waistband to be covered by a cummerbund or waistcoat.Â This in turn provides more opportunities for versatility in a man\’s formal ensemble.Â
The double-breasted model looks better buttoned when the wearer is standing which means there is no need for any sort of waist covering. However, because men usually prefer to unbutton their jacket when seated this model is less convenient than the single-breasted. Also, although the double-breasted is the most formal type of jacket for business suits,Â it is has been traditionally considered the less formal style of dinner jacket due to the lack of accompanying cummerbund or waistcoat.Â
The classic single-breasted dinner jacket takes one waist button.Â The double-breasted model has four buttons and fastens with either the bottom row or both rows depending on the cut.
As with the single- and double-breasted models, both the peaked lapel and shawl collar are authentic and correct.Â Â Â
The peaked lapel is derived from the tailcoat and for that reason it is considered the more formal of the two styles.The shawl collar is influenced by the smoking jacket and conveys a softer image than its angular counterpart.Â Â Â Â Considered less formal due to its origins, it nonetheless appeals to urbane dressers due to its after-six exclusivity.The shawl collar is also the style most popular on warm-weather jackets and other alternative dinner jackets.Â Â
Although the notched lapel is by far the most popular style today and proponents point out that it has made occasional appearances since Victorian times, the styleâ€™s derivation from the common lounge suit has traditionally limited it to a fashion-forward alternative.Â custom work shirts It was not until the late 1970s that etiquette and style experts began to consider it to be correct for formal attire and even then its acceptance was limited.
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